Armin Tement likes to say that Sauvignon Blanc grown on this soil doesn’t really taste like Sauvignon Blanc, and he is right. Fosilni Breg means fossil hill, and the vineyard is a steep, south-facing wall of 60-million-year-old limestone reef, an ancient seabed with the Slovenia-Austria border running straight through it. It is essentially the same rock as Chablis, just younger. The Tements farm it organically and biodynamically, ferment spontaneously in large old casks from a single Carinthian cooper, then age the wine a full year on its lees in wood and another in steel before bottling unfined and unfiltered. What comes out is built on structure and salt rather than grapefruit and cut grass. If your idea of the grape stops at New Zealand, this will rearrange it.