Vinsobres became a cru in 2006, promoted alongside Beaumes-de-Venise (2005) in the first wave of new Rhone crus since Vacqueyras in 1990, and Chaume-Arnaud is one of the estates that made the case. La Cadene comes from old vines on limestone-clay slopes, fermented with native yeasts and raised in concrete, which keeps the structure honest and the fruit unvarnished. What makes this bottle unusual is simply that it exists: a Rhone red with a decade-plus of age on it, at a moment when almost nobody holds wine back anymore. It has settled into that lovely middle place, cherry and raspberry still intact but joined now by dusty earth, dried herbs and a supple, resolved finish. Ready to drink tonight, no waiting required.