Clos des Mouches is one of Beaune’s great vineyards, and Chanson is one of its largest owners, a fact that gets far less airtime than it should. The mouches in question are not flies but bees, an old local name for the hives that once worked this hillside. Planted to Chardonnay on limestone, the site gives a white Burgundy of real tension: delicate florals, citrus and white fruit stretched over a spine of stone, with none of the heaviness that afflicts lesser Cote de Beaune whites. The cool, small-yielding 2021 vintage suits this wine perfectly, leaving it taut, precise and pointed squarely at the cellar. Structured white Burgundy that still moves with grace.