Sommerberg sits just out the back door of the Boxler winery, a granite wall pitched at roughly 45 degrees that the family works by hand because nothing else is possible. Dudenstein is the parcel where that granite gives way to limestone and sandstone, planted with vines that went into the ground in 1946 and 1953. The extra geological complexity shows up as depth: this is the fullest, most layered of Boxler’s Sommerberg bottlings, concentrated but never heavy, with a salty mineral drive running under everything. It is bone dry and coiled tight enough to reward a decade in the cellar. Boxler remains one of Alsace’s greatest addresses, and still one of its least shouted-about.