Here’s a rare thing: a southern Italian red with more than a decade of age on it, released when it’s actually ready to drink. Notarpanaro was the first wine Cosimo Taurino ever bottled, and the Taurino family did as much as anyone to put Puglia’s Negroamaro on the map. This 2013 comes from old vines on the Salento peninsula; the name honors the notary Panaro, from whom the family bought the land, fermented in stainless, aged about eight months in used barriques, then given a long rest in steel and cement before bottling. Now showing its savory, tertiary side, it’s full-bodied and dry with Negroamaro’s signature gently bitter, elegant finish. A lot of history in the glass.