Clos Henri is the Bourgeois family’s New Zealand project a Sancerre dynasty that planted in Marlborough in 2000 and now farms 110 hectares fully certified organic. This estate Sauvignon Blanc comes off the property’s greywacke river-stone soils and shows what Marlborough can do when a French team is calling the shots: more flinty, more textural, less of the loud tropical fruit and more of the cool, mineral edge you’d find in good Sancerre. It’s a Sauvignon Blanc for people who think they don’t like Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and for people who already do, the next step up.