The horse on the label isn’t decoration, it’s a grudge. A century ago, when the appellation lines were drawn, this estate got booted out of Moulin-a-Vent and reclassified as Fleurie. The furious owner refused to print “Fleurie” and named the wine after his racehorse, Roilette, instead. Now here’s the full-circle part: the Coudert family, who run the place today, recently bought a parcel back on the Moulin-a-Vent hill, finally reclaiming the appellation the estate lost a hundred years ago. This is that wine, whole-cluster Gamay fermented naturally and aged in ancient foudres. Cru Beaujolais with a real story and the structure to age.