Chateau La Rame is one of the oldest and most celebrated estates in Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, a hillside perch famous for lusciously sweet wines across the river from Sauternes. This is their dry white, a completely different animal: mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a little Semillon, hand-harvested off clay-limestone and rested on its lees for freshness and texture. It’s crisp, mineral and honest, the kind of everyday white a serious sweet-wine house makes when it wants something to drink at lunch. Most of it crosses the Atlantic for the US market, so it’s a bit of an insider’s bottle.