A serious Pouilly-Fuiss from one of the Mconnais’s most exciting partnerships: Olivier Merlin (the region’s standard-bearer) and Dominique Lafon (of Comtes Lafon in Meursault). ‘Aux Quarts’ was elevated to Premier Cru in 2020, when Pouilly-Fuiss received its first-ever 1er Cru classifications, and Clos des Quarts is the walled monopole at the heart of the lieu-dit entirely owned and farmed by the domaine. Built for the table and the cellar both.