Savigny-ls-Beaune is Chantereves’ home village, and this is the bottle where that familiarity shows most plainly. Dessus de Montchenevoy is an upper-slope site “dessus” meaning above cooler and stonier than the ground down on the valley floor, which is precisely why the wine has snap. It’s a village wine and it doesn’t pretend otherwise: crunchy red currant and raspberry, a peppery savory edge, light tannin, no oak veneer, nothing dressed up. Give it fifteen minutes in the fridge and it becomes the most useful bottle in the house. The easiest way into a cellar that also turns out premier crus and a Corton-Charlemagne, and honestly one of the most fun.