One tried-and-true trick to find good value is to seek out a great producer’s entry-level wine and Bruno Giacosa makes the most compelling case of all. In the late 1960s, the Roero’s native white grape, Arneis, was on the brink of extinction; Giacosa is widely credited with saving it. His Roero Arneis remains the benchmark expression classy, classical, with the kind of texture and quiet complexity you’d expect from a house that has set the standard for traditional Piedmont for decades.