Brndlmayer is, full stop, one of Austria’s great estates Willi (now joined by son Vincent) is a benchmark for what Kamptal can do. Steinmassl is a steep, terraced site above Langenlois, classified 1TW Erste Lage, the sterreichische Traditionsweingter single-vineyard ranking often compared to premier cru. Dry, taut, and electric, this Riesling is built on rocky, stony soils that show up directly in the glass. Among the most expressive Rieslings made anywhere in Austria.