Bruna is a benchmark Liguria producer, and Pigato is the saline, sun-drenched native white grape of the Riviera di Ponentethe western coastal stretch that runs from Genoa to the French border. U Baccan is the top of the lineup, drawn from old vines and made to age. Expect a Pigato that’s denser, more textured, and more savory than the simple seafood whites the grape is known for: ripe stone fruit, salted almond, fresh herbs, and the unmistakable salty lift of vineyards perched above the Mediterranean. A serious bottle from a serious site.