Bernard Defaix has been working the slopes around Milly since 1959, and the family is certified organic (with biodynamic preparations in the vineyards). Cote de Lechet is their flagship 1er Cru: a southeast-facing, marl-and-limestone hillside on the left bank of the Serein, above Milly, where the Defaix’s are the largest landholders. The stony soil here is studded with the fossilized Exogyra virgula oysters that give classic Chablis its electric salinity. This is a powerful, age-worthy expression that flourishes with a few years in bottle, taking on the gunflint mineral character the cru is famous for.