Banyan is the Gewurztraminer-and-Riesling project of Kenny Likitprakong, born from his Thai-Chinese heritage and the realization that California Gewurz, made well, is one of the great companions to Southeast Asian food. The fruit comes almost entirely from Ventana Vineyards in the Arroyo Seco AVA of Monterey, where a long growing season and cool maritime air keep the variety aromatic without going flabby. Off-dry, with the classic lychee-and-rose lift you want, plus enough acidity to keep it nimble. Pour it with Thai green curry and watch the room light up.