Armand de Brignac Ace of Spades Brut, the gold-bottled Champagne known as much for its shine as its wine, blends Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Bottled by the Cattier house in Chigny-les-Roses, it fills the glass with a creamy, full-bodied texture and a fine, persistent bead. Ripe apple and citrus lead, brioche and honey follow, and a thread of chalky minerality runs through the long finish. Serve it well chilled in a white-wine glass rather than a narrow flute, which gives the aromatics room to open. It belongs at a celebration, or any night that deserves one.