Arianna Occhipinti spent years looking for the right white vineyard, and in 2016 she found it: a site at nearly 500 meters in the hills above Chiaramonte Gulfi, ringed by pines, oaks and centuries-old olive trees. The grape is Grillo, the contrada is Santa Margherita, and the soils are white limestone marl and sand laid down by an ancient sea. She gives it a day on the skins, ferments spontaneously in concrete and large Austrian oak casks, then ages it ten months split between the two. Sicilian rules won’t let her name the contrada on the label, hence SM. The altitude and the gypsum in the soil do the rest, keeping this saline and firm rather than sun-baked. A white with real presence and no makeup.