Frappato is where Arianna Occhipinti started, and this bottling marks twenty years of it. She’s spent those two decades learning her contrade, the individual districts around Vittoria, and this celebration release draws on that work: 100% Frappato, farmed organically, hand-picked, fermented with native yeasts, nothing added to make it louder than it is. Sicilian labeling rules won’t let her print the contrada names, which tells you something about how far ahead of the paperwork she’s been. Vittoria’s limestone and sand keep the wine light on its feet and hauntingly perfumed despite the heat. If you’ve ever wondered why natural wine’s biggest fans and its biggest skeptics both love Occhipinti, this is the bottle that explains it.