Loibenberg is the warmest of the great Wachau sites, a wall of sun-baked terraces climbing 200 meters above the Danube on barren primary rock. Leo Alzinger farms it for tension as much as power, and this Smaragd, the ripest dry tier in the region, threads concentration through a frame that stays nervy and precise. Spontaneously fermented and raised in steel with a touch of neutral Austrian oak, it shows what Wachau Riesling can do when nobody gets in the way. Built to drink now or cellar for a decade-plus.