This is the bottle that converts people who think they don’t like brandy. The Camut family has been farming apple orchards in Normandy’s Pays d’Auge since the 1800s, and the current generation still does it the slow way: heirloom apples from high-trunk (hautes-tiges) trees, cider fermented in wood for the better part of a year, then double distillation in copper pot stills fired by wood. From there the spirit goes into old oak casks (nothing new, nothing showy) and sits for 25 years, reduced gently with rainwater along the way. The result has the concentration of a great old spirit without the sawdust and vanilla that new barrels bolt on. Serve it neat at room temperature in a glass with some room to breathe; it doesn’t need ice and it doesn’t need help.