The Napa benchland at the foot of the Mayacamas has been proving itself since the 1870s, and Young Inglewood has spent nearly twenty years looking after some of those original sites. This is their flagship: 96% Cabernet Sauvignon rounded out with dabs of Cabernet Franc and Malbec, aged 22 months in French oak. Tasted alongside the benchland’s other classicists, the family resemblance is obvious depth of fruit, real freshness, structure that means business with a little more spice from the barrel and a slightly redder-fruited profile from their sunnier parcels. Poised and elegant rather than muscular, with boysenberry, anise and sweet earth on the nose. Proof that the old St. Helena bench still speaks clearly when nobody’s shouting over it.