Kabinett is Germany’s best trick: a wine this light has no business being this vivid. The Lenchen is the Spreitzers’ home vineyard in Oestrich, low-lying and deep-soiled near the Rhine, and it gives grapes long hang time and serious ripe extract. Andreas and Bernd pick for freshness, ferment gently, and leave just enough residual sugar to balance the very high acidity rather than to sweeten anything. The wine that comes out is featherlight and packed with flavor, low in alcohol, and impossible to get tired of. Drink it now with something spicy, or forget a bottle in the cellar and be pleasantly surprised in a decade.