Most ros Champagne is made by blending a splash of red wine into white. This one is made the harder way: Gautherot ferments whole clusters of Pinot Noir from the Sorbe plot and bleeds off the pink juice, which gives the wine real depth of color and real grip. It is farmed biodynamically in Buxieres-sur-Arce, in the far south of Champagne, and bottled brut nature with no dosage at all. The result is closer to a sparkling red-fruited wine than to anything decorative, and it deserves a dinner table more than a toast. Skeptics of pink bubbles tend to change their position on this one.