Cornas has changed. The appellation used to make “country wine” dark, brooding, sometimes inelegant and the new generation has remade it into something that stands shoulder to shoulder with Hermitage and Cte-Rtie. La Geynale is Vincent Paris’s flagship, made from his uncle Robert Michel’s 100-year-old parcel in one of Cornas’s top terroirs. This is the inheritance wine single-vineyard, the apex of his lineup. It is not light, but it is certainly fresh and energetic. It dances. It shows what Cornas can be in the hands of the new generation.