Pipeno is how Chile drank for four centuries before anyone thought to bottle wine in a chateau. Traditionally it’s Pais, light and gulpable, sold from the barrel and poured without ceremony. David Marcel and Loreto Garau make theirs from old vines in Maule (some of the plantings date to the 1890s), blending in a bit of Carignan and keeping the winemaking as hands-off as possible. The result is pale, lively, and dangerously easy: put a chill on it and watch the bottle disappear. This is joy in a glass, not a museum piece.