The Bacigalupi name sits inside one of California’s founding legends: their Chardonnay made up a large share of the 1973 Chateau Montelena that beat white Burgundy in Paris in 1976. Three generations later the family still farms the same Westside Road ground in the Russian River Valley, and their Pinot Noir is some of the most sought-after fruit in Sonoma. Matt Duffy and Sara Vaughn get a small allocation of it and bottle it on its own rather than blending it away. This is the most serious wine in the Vaughn Duffy range and it tastes like it – more depth, more structure, more reward for patience. Give it an hour open, or a few years in a cool corner.