It smells like walnuts, toffee and old leather, and then it finishes bone dry. That contradiction is the whole point of oloroso, and Don Gonzalo is one of the great ones. Valdespino is among the oldest houses in Jerez, and this is their old-guard oloroso: palomino, fortified, then aged in a solera with no flor covering it, so decades of slow contact with air do all the work. The VOS designation is a certification rather than marketing copy, meaning the wine averages at least twenty years in barrel. Expect dried fig, roasted nut, orange peel and a saline, faintly bitter finish that scours the palate clean. There is not a gram of sugar hiding anywhere in here, so anyone bracing for a sweet sherry is in for a happy shock. The 500ml format is the right size for it: pour small glasses, keep it in the fridge, and it will reward you for weeks.