Trediberri was founded in 2007, which makes it one of the newest producers in Barolo, and yet the wines taste like they have been around for generations. The explanation is Federico Oberto, who spent thirty-five years working alongside the legendary Renato Ratti and carried all of that accumulated Barolo wisdom into the family cellar. Today his son Nicola and Nicola’s wife Stefania run the show, specializing in the elegant, aromatic style that La Morra does better than anywhere. This bottling draws on parcels across the commune, so it reads as a portrait of La Morra itself: perfumed, fine-boned Nebbiolo with the tannic frame that lets Barolo age. Give it air, or give it time.