Drew Huffine and Emily Virgil started Trail Marker in 2012 with a goal of making cool-climate California wines in a quieter, old-world register high acid, modest alcohol, fruit allowed to speak. The Santa Cruz Mountains, with their fog, elevation, and patchwork of family-farmed vineyards, are perfect for it. This Pinot Noir is fragrant, lifted, and decidedly un-Californian in a good way: it’s the kind of Pinot that asks for a second pour rather than announcing itself across the room.