Amarone starts with patience: after harvest the grapes are laid out on traditional bamboo racks and left to dry for around 100 days, shriveling until everything in them is concentrated. The Tommasi family have been doing this in Valpolicella since 1902, when Giacomo Tommasi bought his first vineyard, and they released their first Amarone in 1959. Four generations later this remains their calling card, a Corvina-led red built for the cold months. It is full-bodied and deep but, to the family’s credit, never a bruiser: they aim for elegance and smoothness rather than sheer power. Pour it late, with something rich.