For two decades Graham Tatomer has been the Riesling and Gruner guy, which is exactly why his Pinot Noir is worth paying attention to: he made it the same way he makes everything, obsessed with acid, structure, and transparency. It is pale in the glass and loaded with red fruit, closer in spirit to Marsannay than to anything from Sonoma. Fresh, serious, and entirely uninterested in being big. The fruit comes off the SLO Coast, a young AVA that is turning out to be one of the coldest and most interesting corners of California. This is Pinot for people who want Pinot to taste like Pinot.