The French don’t have Burning Man. They have La Dive Bouteille, the natural wine gathering that turns a Loire cave into happy pandemonium every winter, and Sylvie Augereau is its driving force. She also, as it happens, makes wine: 1.5 hectares of old vines overlooking the Loire, worked by hand and horse, no machines, minimal sulfur, some cuvees with none. “Les Manquants” is Cabernet Franc from vines up to a century old, macerated three weeks and aged two years in old foudres, which is to say it is a serious wine and not a party trick. Deep and concentrated, it carries dark fruit, graphite and a fine, silky grip, with the structure to run at least five more years. The catch, inevitably, is that there is barely any of it.