Sylvain Cathiard is one of Vosne-Romanee’s most coveted addresses, a tiny 4.2-hectare domaine whose wines are scarce and chased the world over. Son Sebastien now runs things with a minimalist hand, dialing back new oak to let the terroir speak. Les Suchots is the largest premier cru in Vosne, sitting right up against Grand Cru Echezeaux, and Cathiard’s sliver of old vines yields just a few barrels a year. The 2020 is pure, intense Pinot Noir built for the long haul, layered dark cherry and wild strawberry over firm structure. A cellar treasure; give it years, or decant generously.