After a streak of warm vintages, 2021 brought Burgundy back to its classical roots cooler, lower in alcohol, with the perfumed lift and acid drive that older Burgundy drinkers grew up loving. Cathiard’s Malconsorts in this style is a quiet revelation: lifted red fruit instead of dark, perfume instead of weight, the deep clay of this La Tche-adjacent climat translating cool-vintage detail into something both refined and serious. Yields were brutally small after the April frost, so what’s here is precious and unmistakably a return to form.