2018 is the modern Burgundy vintage in its most generous mode a warm, ripe, abundant year that produced wines of immediate appeal, fuller bodied than the classical cool-vintage profile but still capable of transparency in the right hands. Cathiard’s Malconsorts in 2018 puts on the muscle without losing the address: the deep red clay of this climat, sitting flush against La Tche, channels the vintage’s warmth into something fleshier and darker-fruited than usual, while Sbastien’s strict farming and gentle extraction keep it focused. A 2018 to drink while you wait for the cooler vintages.