Stefano Massone built his life’s work on white wine. Gavi, Cortese, the limestone-and-marl hills looking toward the sea, and no side projects to speak of, so when the Gavi specialist bottles a red, it is worth a look. The Barbera comes from vineyards in Nizza Monferrato, sitting at 200 meters on grey marl and sand, farmed without herbicides or insecticides. It is made the way Massone makes everything else: no makeup, no shortcuts, nothing standing between you and the grape. Barbera’s job here is simple, and it does it well: juicy dark fruit, bright acidity, soft tannins, and a real appetite for food. A weeknight Piedmont staple.