Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf made their first wines in a bunker on an abandoned Canadian air force airfield in Baden. Hence the name. Two decades on they are among Germany’s most convincing Pinot Noir producers, farming limestone-rich sites around Kenzingen and Malterdingen without herbicides or pesticides. Lovely Lilly, named for the family dog, is the joyful entry point: hand-harvested, mostly destemmed, given a short cold soak and a gentle press. It is light on its feet and built on crunchy red fruit rather than weight or oak. German Pinot at its most disarming. Chill it lightly and do not overthink it.