Zweigelt is Austria’s most-planted red grape and one of the great under-the-radar pleasures in wine: a 20th-century crossing of Blaufrnkisch and St. Laurent that gives dark, juicy fruit with almost no tannic weight. Setzer’s comes from Hohenwarth in the Weinviertel, where the family has farmed since 1705 and where sandy, limestone-rich soils keep the wine lifted instead of heavy. Put a light chill on it and it becomes one of the most useful bottles you can keep in the house good with a burger, good with a bowl of pasta, good with nothing at all. It isn’t a wine that asks you to think hard. It’s a wine that’s reliably, straightforwardly delicious.