Felsina is what the Etruscans called Bologna, and this amaro traces back to an old recipe from that city, revived and rebuilt by the Schiavo family, a Veneto distilling house that has been turning out grappa since 1887. It is a true infusion: gentian, licorice, rhubarb, and both bitter and sweet orange, steeped and blended rather than assembled from flavorings. The gentian carries the bitterness, earthy and clean; the citrus keeps everything bright; licorice and rhubarb fill in the middle. It sits on the drier end of the amaro spectrum, which makes it both a better digestivo and a far better cocktail ingredient than the sugary stuff. Pour it over one big cube with an orange twist after dinner, or stir it into anything that calls for a bittersweet Italian liqueur.