Fred Scherrer’s winery is an unmarked metal building outside Sebastopol, and he still does the cellar work himself. Ten years as winemaker at Dehlinger taught him patience: let the fruit speak, touch lightly, don’t rush the bottle out the door. This Russian River Pinot grows in sandy Goldridge soils, ages a long time before release, and goes into bottle unfined and unfiltered. The 2016 is nine years on now, which is the entire point it’s the rare California Pinot at this level built to reward waiting, and it’s drinking with the savory, layered complexity that only time hands over. Black cherry and cola are still there, but the Goldridge signature, a twist of orange peel, is what threads the finish.