Valtellina sits in the Italian Alps, just south of the Swiss border, where Nebbiolo – locally called Chiavennasca – grows on terraced hillsides carved into the mountains. Sandro Fay is one of the modern reference points of the Valgella sub-zone, the easternmost of the named crus, working from the village of Teglio. Ca Morei comes from a 2.5-hectare parcel at 550 meters on sandy, silty soils, south-facing. The wine spends a year in large oak casks, just enough to round the edges without smothering the Alpine signature. This is Nebbiolo at its most aerial and aromatic – a different beast than its Piedmontese cousins, and a thrill to drink.