The flagship Dolcetto from one of Dogliani’s greatest references, just south of Barolo in the Langhe. San Fereolo has been Nicoletta Bocca’s project since 1992, and she has farmed the estate biodynamically (Demeter-certified) for years, coaxing depth and structure out of a grape most treat as an everyday quaffer. This Dogliani comes from her finest old-vine parcels and, with several years of age, shows Dolcetto’s serious, age-worthy side. The 2017 is drinking with real complexity now.