California Gamay almost doesn’t exist, which is part of what makes this so much fun. Baytree Lane sits at 700 feet on the foothills of Sonoma Mountain, above the town of Sonoma proper – volcanic clay loam, warm days, cool nights. Sam Smith treats it gently, native ferments and minimal handling, the goal being to capture Gamay’s natural lift and perfume rather than over-extract it. The result is the kind of red you can chill down on a hot afternoon and still pour with dinner – aromatic, light on its feet, and a little bit wild.