Cool-climate Santa Cruz Mountains Syrah is one of the most exciting categories in California right now, and Sam Smith – formerly of Morgan – is helping lead the charge. Sandstone Terrace pulls from organically farmed sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains, including high-elevation Nelson Vineyard and the coast-hugging Gali Vineyard six miles from the Pacific. Whole-cluster ferments, native yeast, and a deft hand with extraction. The result is Syrah that leans Northern Rhone in its frame – peppery, floral, structured – but tastes unmistakably Californian in its fruit. The sommelier circuit has been quietly buying this one up.