Pelio is one of the most extreme Pinot sites in California: just seven miles from Monterey Bay, planted at 1,000 feet on diatomaceous shale, and farmed organically since the original 2003 planting. The vineyard sits in what’s about to become the Carmel Coast AVA, and it pushes the limits of where Pinot can ripen. Sam Smith – formerly of Morgan – works the fruit with native ferments and whole clusters, letting the site do the talking. The 2023 has the structure and grip of a cooler vintage, with sweet herbs and red berries riding on dusty acidity. Built to age a few years.