Tho Dancer took over his father Vincent’s Chassagne-Montrachet domaine in 2020, and Burgundy has been watching him closely ever since. Roc Breia is his own separate thing: a 10.5-hectare property in the Mconnais that he gets to rebuild from the ground up. When he found the site it had been farmed conventionally for years and, as he tells it, felt lifeless so the whole project is about bringing it back. He makes only two wines here, a Chardonnay and this Pinot Noir, off vines planted between 1970 and 1985, with partial whole-cluster fermentation and aging in used 500-liter barrels. The wine is juicy and perfumed and genuinely easy to love. The interesting part is watching a young winemaker’s ideas play out on a vineyard he is remaking in real time.