Roberto Henriquez is at the forefront of Chile’s natural wine revival, salvaging ancient bush-vine parcels from the country’s heritage Bio-Bio Valley. Tierra de las Pumas comes from a 2.5-hectare site he purchased in 2018 in Santa Juana, on the southern bank of the Bio-Bio River at the foot of the Nahuelbuta Range, where some of the Pais vines have been there for more than 200 years. Henriquez farms without herbicides or pesticides, destems gently, ferments with native yeasts, and ages briefly in stainless steel and old barrels. The result is a translucent, floral, aromatic red that walks a line between elegance and wildness. A great introduction to old-vine Pais done with a light, deft hand.