Roagna is, of course, in the panoply of great Piedmontese producers. Their top Barolos and Barbarescos are like catnip to top collectors. But unlike, say, Roberto Conterno, Luca Roagna still makes a few wines that are affordable and for the moment, at least available in large enough quantities that we can offer them here. The Langhe Rosso is exactly that wine: 100% Nebbiolo drawn from declassified Barbaresco and Barolo parcels and made in precisely the same traditional spirit as the cru bottlings long maceration, large neutral botti, patience. It’s the most accessible entry into the Roagna style, and from 2020 a classic Piedmont vintage it’s a happy way to drink seriously without breaking the bank.