Ren Rostaing built his name on Cte-Rtie, where he makes some of the most sought-after Syrah in France. Then, in the late 1990s, he and his wife bought a plateau near Nmes covered in rounded galets the same stones you see in Chteauneuf-du-Pape, but sitting higher and running noticeably cooler. That elevation is the whole point of this white. Grenache Blanc, Rolle and a little Viognier, raised entirely in steel with no oak anywhere near it, so the fruit stays crisp and the finish stays saline. It is the easiest way to drink Rostaing’s hand without chasing down his Rhne bottlings.