Of the three Lindes single-village bottlings, San Vicente is the warmer one. San Vicente de la Sonsierra sits across the river from Remelluri’s home base in Labastida, and the slightly lower, sunnier sites give the wines a little more weight and depth without sacrificing the lift that defines Rioja Alavesa. The Lindes project is part of a quiet revolution in Rioja: thanks to recent DOCa changes, producers can now name villages and vineyards on the label standard practice nearly everywhere else, but a big deal here. The Rodrguez family, who released Rioja’s first single-vineyard wine back in 1971, are once again pointing the way.